September 18

We set off to Hwange for the weekend.  I cannot tell you what it is like to leave Bulawayo behind after so many weeks of being confined to it.  Before we go, we have to collect a letter from the safari company who operate the lodge we are going to, that says we have a booking.  This is to show police at stops along the way.  Despite tourism being opened up, it seems you still cannot just get in your car and decide to head off into the sunset. We are not stopped at any of the roadblocks; as soon as they see we have masks on, we are waved through. I wonder if there is anyone who would actually wear a mask for the entire journey.

Ganda Lodge is not top of the range, but it provides a lovely escape for the weekend.  There is a huge pan in front of the lodge to which the animals come and everyone who has been here has told me how you don't have to go into the park at all because the animals come to you.  When we arrive, there is a herd of sable at the waterhole.  They always look like such regal creatures and there is something mythical about them, to me at least. Unfortunately, the swimming pool is empty due to covid.

The chalet has two storeys: the girls make themselves comfortable upstairs and make all sorts of plans to wake up at five o'cock in the morning to see the game.  Dinner at Ganda is basic, but adequate.  There is no choice, but they do offer three (small ) courses. When we arrive, I remind them that we don't eat red meat and they say they know, but then add: 'But you do eat pork, don't you?' No, we don't.  The staff share a look that makes me feel a bit nervous.  The look says: tell the chef, quickly.

First course is half a grilled tomato with cheese on top, rather grandiosely described as a 'stuffed tomato'.  Second course is battered fish, pasta and vegetables and dessert is a sponge with custard.  One thing that drives John is mad in restaurants is when waiters clear someone's plate and there are still people eating.  The waitress not only clears Sian and Ellie's plates before John and I have finished, but she even brings the next course.  We have to tell her to slow down.  Dinner will be over in 15 minutes otherwise.